A recent ARP Head Stud Install on a 6.0 - 

These are a few pictures and captions from a recent job. All pictures were taken in our shop by us. All the captions came from past experience and training. 

 

1. The 6.0 Powerstroke - Innocent and untouched.

2. The Parts - Supplied by the customer: MBRP 4" exhaust AFE cold air intake, EGR delete kit, ARP stud kit, Black Diamond Head Gaskets that we did not use.

3. The patientThis engine had about 80,000 miles on it at this time no apparent issues the customer just wanted to make it more reliable while adding more power.

4. Stock exhaustWe will be replacing this in favor of something bigger shinier and louder.

5. Aleady inside - Here is the engine cylinder heads removed. Some folks like to remove the cab for this job I choose to remove the a/c box from the passenger side.

6. Underside of cylinder head - This is where I would recommend sending the heads out to be checked for cracks many of which are invisible to the naked eye. Common crack locations are factory valve seats and the injector bore along the glow plug side just above the injector cup.

7. The head gasket - Although this engine showed no signs of issues once removed there is evidence of head gasket failure. Notice the rust color, that is the excess iron that will plug the oil cooler. 

8. Exhaust manifold leak - Notice the black soot around the flange. Ford did not use gaskets here from the factory, now is a great time to install gaskets.

9. Yep - This doesn't look like much but a leak here can result in boost issues as well as nasty exhaust smell inside the cab of the truck.

10. Gasket - This is the updated steel gasket from Ford, they work very well.

11. The turbo - So much magic happens here.

12. Mark locations - When removing the turbine housing I like to mark the band clamp location and direction it was pointing. 

13. This little guy - "I wouldn't worry about this little guy." This is the VGT solenoid, that is Variable Geometry Turbo solenoid. It is controlled by the engine computer it uses engine oil pressure to move the the VGT vanes inside the turbine housing.

14. One more mark - After I have removed the clamp I mark the location of the VGT actuator arm on the turbine housing, this helps install the unison ring onto the VGT vanes.

15. The dirty Turbine housing - On top is the unison ring that rotates back and forth to move VGT vanes.

16. The turbine wheel & CHRA - this is the the turbine wheel and the rest of the turbo minus the compressor housing is refered to as the CHRA, or Center Housing Rotating Assembly. 

17. More - All the Black soot and rust has to be removed to allow the unison ring to move freely and prevent sticking.

18. The vanes - These all need to be removed and inspected for wear, everything needs to be cleaned to ensure these vanes can move freely without any sticking.

19. Ahhh, the unison ring - This ring needs to be cleaned and carefully inspected. Look closely for cracks or mishapen slots. Also look closely at the acuator slot for uneven wear or bean shape. 

20. The compressor side - During a normal turbo cleaning there is no need to remove the compressor housing but this customer requested installation of the BatMoWheel. 

21. BatMoWheel - It is the shiny one.

22. Spot the differences - The BatMoWheel is slightly larger and has a slightly different design on the fins. 

23. ooooh, ahhhh - The BatMoWheel (I just like saying that name) Is more efficient and gives better throttle response and less turbo lag through the mid range of rpms so you really notice the difference during normal driving.

24. New compressor housing - In 2006 Ford revised the compressor housing on the 6.0. The revised housing actually has a smaller inlet, in order to install the BatMoWheel the housing needs to be machined to fit, So this is a machined housing.

25. Spot the difference - If you look closely partway into the inlet you can tell where the replacement housing was enlarged.

26. Ready to install - This BatMoWheel turbo is ready to run.

27. Ford Head Gaskets - This is the Ford head gasket in place ready to go. The Ford gasket kit comes with new bolts and oil stand pipes that we will discuss soon. The 6.0 used 2 different sized dowels for their cylinder heads 18mm and 20mm the 20mm were used on late build 05 and newer engines as well as all reman engines and cylinder heads. 

28. Stud kit - This is an ARP stud kit. Highly recommended when replacing head gaskets. The factory head bolts are a torque to yield design meaning they actually stretch as they are tightened to acheive proper torque. The studs do not strech and the allow greater clamping force to keep that head gasket intact.

29. The correct lube - ARP recommends using their own lubricant on the studs, nuts, and washers to ensure proper torque. This lubricant is supposed to give more consistant torque than regular motor oil.

30. Stud vs. Bolt - Really no comparison, always recommend studs.

31. Some creativity required - On the driver's side cylinder head the rear most lower stud/bolt can not be installed after the head is in place. (if the cab hasn't been removed) I use a rubber band to hold the stud/bolt in place while placing the cylinder head on the engine.

32. Injector O-rings - Any time an injector is removed from a Powerstroke its o-rings must be replaced before reinstallation. It doesn't matter which powerstroke and it doesnt' matter how new the o-rings were if they were installed and removed they MUST be replaced. 

33. The injector inlet - There is a fat o-ring just inside the inlet to the injector, this o-ring seals the high pressure oil manifold to the injector. Be sure to lubricate with clean motor oil before installing the oil manifold. Also ALWAYS use a torque wrench when installing injectors and always torque to spec. Unless you like blown up engines.

34. The screen - When inspecting the injectors always make sure that these screens are still intact. I have found on many high milage or poor fuel quality applications these screens are either damaged or missing. If these screens are damaged or missing recommend replacing injectors. 

35. Glow plugs - The 6.0 has a glow plug monitor that sets codes when glow plugs fail. The onle true test is to take the glow plug out and test it with an ohm meter. I have found a lot of glow plugs fail in these engines around 80,000 miles, it wouldn't hurt to change them around that time as a maintenance item.

36. Glow plugs - These glow plugs are supposed to heat up hotter and faster than factory glow plugs. I like them because the box says made in the USA 

37. Dummy Plug - This is the High pressure oil manifold dummy plug. The one on the left is updated with new o-rings and fancy plastic teflon magic spacers. Before the updates it was a common problem for the o-rings on these plugs to wear and cause a no start condition when the engine was hot.

38. High pressure stand pipes - These stand pipes feed oil to the high pressure oil manifolds they received the same treatment as the dummy plugs. Also note these are two piece the top part that is threaded is removable and it contains a checkvalve to help the engine run smoother. 

39. Stand Pipe ID - There have been three generations of these oil standpipes. You can tell which ones you have by the what tool you need to remove or install them. The early 6.0 late 03 and 04 used a 1/2" drive square the next generation used 10mm hex and the newest used 12mm hex.

40. EGR delete - I do not recommend intstalling an EGR delete kit due to the fact that it makes it illegal to drive the vehicle on public roads, also there are several aftermarket coolers available that do a great job such as Bullet Proof Diesel.

41. Installed - Most of the EGR delete kits recommend installing without removing the intake manifold. I strongly recommend removing the intake manifold to replace the gaskets and properly install everything. I also highly recommend replacing the oil cooler and flushing the cooling system at the same time. Even though after the delete kit is installed the truck will never be driven on a public road again..... right

42. Oil Cooler - This is the oil cooler and housing assembly. I highly recommend upgrading to the Bullet Proof Diesel external cooler at this point but most budgets do not allow.

43. High pressure pump screen - Beneath the oil cooler is the high pressure oil pump reservoir. At the bottom of the reservoir lies this screen. Over time (especially if the oil hasn't been changed every 5,000 miles) this screen starts to fall apart and pieces of the screen come out, next stop HP oil pum and IPR (injection pressure Regulator) Replace this screen any time the oil cooler is removed. The Ford oil cooler kit comes with one anyway.

44. More on the Oil Cooler - I recommend servicing the oil cooler anytime the EGR cooler or cylinder heads are removed. The oil cooler being restricted is by far the most common cause of EGR cooler failure.

45. Careful - Use caution when removing the oil cooler from the housing. A cracked housing will cause all kinds of issues.

46. Again with the screen - The older screen actually used plastic for the screen the updated screen uses stainless steel.

47. OEM vs. Aftermarket - We were lucky enough to have an OEM oil cooler and an aftermarket oil cooler to compare.

48. Which one would you want? - The cooler on the right is aftermarket and it is plain to see that the coolant and oil passages are smaller. Since the factory oil cooler's failure is from coolant restriction I would think this would be an obvious no no.

49. Cheap - In general the aftermarket cooler looks and feels cheap. No wonder it said "made in China" right inside the box.

50. Wow - I think I could almost fit my head inside that exhaust tip.

51. Bigger, Shinier, Louder - Nuff Said.

52. FLUSH - After everything is pretty much back together I strongly recommend a cooling system flush. By the book you need to remove the T-stat from the housing like this picture shows, then fill the system with water and vc-9 Motorcraft cooling system iron cleaner, run the engine at 1150 rpms for minimum of 1 hour then remove the starter and the coolant plugs in the block and flush flush flush flush till no dirt or bubbles are present. I usually install a new thermostat at the end and always use distilled water along with Motorcraft Premium Gold Coolant.

 

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